“Haori” and “Hakama” have been worn for centuries and today are traditional Japanese fashions with a long history, worn for ceremonies like weddings and coming-of-age ceremonies, as well as festivals and other events. A haori is a thin coat worn over a kimono, while a hakama is a pants-like kimono. Let’s learn about these garments, when to wear them, and how to wear them.
In general, haori refers to “Naka haori,” a coat worn over a kimono.
It was worn not only for formality, but also as winter clothing.
The most common length is around the knee, and it is said to make your behavior look beautiful, but there are various ways to enjoy it depending on the age and gender of the wearer.
Haori with a family crest attached is called “montsuki-haori “or “mon-haori”.
Haori with crests are worn as formal wear and are the first formal wear for men. It is worn for wedding ceremonies, coming-of-age ceremonies, etc., but nowadays, you may only wear it once in your lifetime.
In the past, haori was worn by men as a coat to protect themselves from the cold, but these days it is more commonly worn by women as a kimono overcoat.
haori became a coat worn by women.
It is said that the haori originated in the late 1500s when warlords began to wear them as “jinbaori” over their armor to protect them from the cold on the battlefield. At that time, it was not called “haori” but “dohbuku”. Because of its convenience, the haori soon came to be worn in daily life and became widespread. For samurai class, it was treated as everyday wear, while for non-samurai class, haori-hakama with a crest was formal wear.
In the 1600’s (Edo period), it became popular among the general public, but it was still a man’s garment because women’s haori were often forbidden by the shogunate. At that time, women were not allowed to dress freely.
In the late 1800’s (Meiji era), women were free to wear haori. In the case of women, haori was not formal dress, but became popular as a fashionable and warm clothing. Until the early Showa period (1926-1989), long haori were in fashion, but as the war intensified, haori became shorter for moving easily.
In the Heisei era, long haori became popular among young girls who prefer kimonos as antiques, and it became possible to choose any length according to your preference.
What is a Hakama?
Hakama is not the entire kimono, but the part of the kimono that is worn over the lower half of the body, and is equivalent to “pants” in Western clothing. Hakama are wrapped around the body and secured with a cord that is tied in the back.
The origins of hakama are ancient, and it is said that they have been worn since around 250 B.C. (Kofun period). Like haori, hakama was originally a formal dress for men, and was worn only by high-class court ladies.
During the Edo period (1603-1868), women were forbidden to wear hakama because of the strict dress code based on gender and status. The only exceptions to this were the court ladies. Except for them, women wore long kimonos with wide obi(belt).
It was during the Meiji era (1868-1912), the same period as the haori, that the kimono became popular among the general public. At the same time as education for women, it became popular among schoolgirls because conventional kimonos wrinkled easily when seated.
From around 1940 (Taisho era), the huge earthquake triggered a switch in uniforms from hakama to sailor suits and jumper skirts.
Thus, the Hakama style, a mixture of Japanese and Western styles that was very popular during the Meiji and Taisho periods and a symbol of female students, disappeared from campuses as Western clothes became more popular.
Types of Hakama
There are two main types of hakama: the “Umanori-bakama”, which is divided into two halves, and the “Andon-bakama”, which is completely tubular.
Umanori-bakama
These hakama were worn by samurai during the Edo period (1603-1868) as hakama for riding horses.
They were called “Umanori-bakama” because they were designed like a culotte skirt, split in two, to make it easier to ride a horse.
Andon-bakama
Andon-bakama are completely tubular, without gussets, and are shaped like a skirt. It was mainly used for women and school girls.
Compared to the umanori-bakama, the hakama is simpler in design and was a common fashion in the late Edo period. Nowadays, they are also available for men.
Shape
Hira-bakama (Andon-bakama)
A hakama with a wider hem. It is also called Han-bakama.
The level of formality depends on the material of the hakama.
No-bakama
Hakama with a wide velvet hem.
(*Velvet is a type of fabric woven in a lustrous weave, often made of cotton, silk, or wool.)
It is said to have been used by samurai in the Edo period for traveling. In the Edo period, it was worn as everyday wear, so its shape is on thin pants.
Material
The material determines the level of formality. The order of formality is as follows: Seigou-Sendaihira, Omeshi, and Tsumugi.
Seigou-Sendai-Hira
Seigou-Sendai-hira is a high-grade textile produced in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, and is considered to be the top quality hakama fabric, with an elegant luster and tension. The technique was originally developed in Kyoto and spread around the middle of the Edo period (1603-1868), under the protection and encouragement of the Date clan.
It is a material that does not wrinkle easily and maintains its quality for a long time.
Omeshi
Also known as Omeshi-chirimen, this is a high-class material.
It is a plain weave fabric using yarn dyed in advance, and is designated as a traditional craft by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry.
Tsumugi
In the past, hakama made of tsumugi were used for daily wear. It is a kimono made by dyeing inferior quality yarn in advance before weaving, and has different characteristics depending on the region where it is woven. Oshima- tsumugi, Ushikubi-tsumugi, and Yuki-tsumugi are the most famous.
Occasions in which men wear hakama
Hakama is usually worn for ceremonial occasions, but since the Heisei era (1989-2019), it has been increasingly worn as fashionable clothing as well.
For formal wear
The most common occasions for wearing hakama are weddings, coming-of-age ceremonies, and graduation ceremonies. The main type of hakama worn is the hira-bakama with a wider hem.
For fashion wear
As well as formal wear, hirabakama is also commonly worn for fashion.
The main fabrics used are Omeshi and Tsumugi, which are relatively casual.
(*Omeshi: an elegant fabric with an uneven surface and a luster; *Tumugi: a fabric made of spun yarn)
For daily wear
As in the Edo period, this type of kimono is worn in the form of a no-bakama, which is a type of everyday wear.
It is also popular as a casual kimono fashion, but actually, it is rare to find people wearing hakama for everyday wear in Japan.
Occasions in which Women Wear Hakama
Nowadays, women wear hakama in three different situations.
The first is wearing them as formal wear for college graduation ceremonies and coming-of-age ceremonies.
They are worn in unique patterns and colors, from delicate feminine colors to gorgeous and vivid colors.
The second is the uniforms for martial arts such as kendo, kyudo, and aikido. Hakama are also worn as uniforms in a traditional Japanese card game called “Hyakunin-Isshu”.
The third is worn by men and women who work at shrines. Women who wear bright white kimonos and bright scarlet hakama are called miko, or shrine maidens, and they work at shrines.
Haori and Hakama are formal dress for men.
Hakama and Haori are worn together as part of a man’s formal dress. When attending ceremonies, men’s haori are worn with the family crest embroidered on the left and right chest.
Haori with family crests are worn by the main person like a groom in weddings, coming-of-age ceremonies, and graduation ceremonies. If you are not main, wear a haori that does not have the family crest embroidered on it. That way, you can wear it to a party or a friend’s wedding.
